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The White House has invited chef Marcus Samuelsson to cook the state dinner honoring Indian Prime Minister Manmohan Singh on November 24. Samuelsson, of the highly regarded Aquavit in New York City, will be working with White House Executive Chef Cristeta Comerford, according to sources in the food world.

Until this administration, guest chefs have been a rarity at the White House – for any occasion. And the choice of Samuelsson has come somewhat late in a process that began in early summer. White House assistant chef and Food Initiative Coordinator Sam Kass sampled food at several restaurants — sometimes with social secretary, Desiree Rogers — to see whose work might be suitable. On the list were Charlie Palmer of Aureole in New York; Michel Nischan of the Dressing Room in Westport, Conn.; Dan Barber of Blue Hill in New York and Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Pocantico, N.Y., as well as Samuelsson.

When the selection process shifted to the White House kitchen at the end of last week, Samuelsson had only one rival: Patrick O’Connell from the Inn at Little Washington. (O’Connell is in Paris and was not available for comment.) Samuelsson did not prepare the tasting himself: he sent his executive chef, Johan Svensson.

Before Samuelsson knew he had been chosen, he acknowledged only that he had been contacted by the White House. “I know there has been interest, and I would love to do it,” he said. “If I got it, I would be very proud.”

Since landing the assignment, he has not returned phone calls. The White House had no comment.

The practice of using visiting chefs began in the Clinton administration, but it doesn’t get raves from former chefs. “I would have been very upset if they had done that,” said Henry Haller, who spent 21 years as chef for administrations stretching from the Johnson to the Reagans.

Walter Scheib, former chef for the Clintons and the Bushes, agrees. He had a brief visit from one guest chef during the Clinton administration. The late Patrick Clark, the most prominent African-American chef at the time, prepared one dish at a state dinner for Nelson Mandela.

Samuelsson is the most prominent American chef of African descent today. He was born in Ethiopia and adopted by a Swedish couple who raised him in Sweden; he is now a naturalized American citizen.

Hubert Keller, owner of Fleur de Lys in San Francisco, lays claim to being the first guest chef at the White House. He went there twice with diet expert Dean Ornish — renowned for reversing heart disease — to cook healthful meals for the Clinton family.

The Obamas have brought in a parade of outside chefs, chosen for their specialties. Bobby Flay of New York’s Mesa Grill barbecued with the president at an event for young men from local schools. Michael Psilakis of Anthos in New York cooked for a reception on Greek Independence Day. And Maricel Presilla of Cucharamama and Zafra in Hoboken, N.J., cooked for a cocktail party preceding Fiesta Latina.

Though Aquavit serves Swedish food, Samuelsson is well-versed in American cuisine; the title of his latest book is “New American Table.” But one source says the state dinner will feature global cuisine, possibly including a curry dish. The Prime Minister is described as an abstemious vegetarian.

Further information about the food and chef for this dinner will be officially released on November 24.